Today I spent the afternoon at the new education and health
center I just finished funding in village (through a USAID grant, through Peace
Corps, FYI). My fantastic community health workers were weighing babies while
women from the village were cooking a nutritional supplement meal of ndambé
(beans in a tomato, onion, garlic, hot pepper, vinegar sauce—I will be cooking
these weekly to store in my freezer in America). I was painting some project
titles and a building name above the door with a 2.5” paintbrush I modified
with a serrated knife and duct tape to a small round brush. The health workers
are involved in a project of Plan Senegal for early childhood education and
maternal and child health. So, the regional project manager came to the
weighing to teach them some new curriculum materials. She lives in my road
town, which I believe I’ve mentioned is 3 km away down the sand road and on the
national highway… and I don’t really care for it. Although I’ve been passing
through for two years, it’s big enough that I’m still a random toubab to
someone every time I’m there. She’s a great lady though, who is doing really
good work and not just in the capacities of her project. Every time I’ve met
her, she’s spent some of her time simply explaining that development is
meaningless without the work of local counterparts—if the community isn’t
motivated to make a change, no amount of money from outside will do it for
them.
So, I have a new friend in village, a 6 month old grandson
of the local Imam whose daughter in-law I buy ice from every day. Funny how
just like grown up people you immediately bond with some babies… Anyway, his
grandma brought him to be weighed, and he was staring at me with a smile, so I
took a short break from my work to hold him. … Totally in that phase where
there is almost nothing better than
holding a baby and just… being together… But, I needed to get something done.
So, I put him down in his grandmother’s lap after a few minutes. He wasn’t
having it. He cried, and sucker that I am, he was back in my arms pretty
immediately. We walked around and looked at a charette, and after a few more
minutes I tried again. Nope. Not yet. More crying. So I picked him back up, and
at this point the project manager says to the health workers, “what? Have you ever
seen this? A black baby that just wants to be held by a white person?” … I mean, I can at this point completely forgiver
her ignorance, and even pity the fact
that her world experience has been so limited that this is something worth
commenting on for her. But, at the time I was really legitimately offended. I
live here, I have for two years now, and very rarely does a thought cross my
mind that has anything to do with the fact that we don’t have the same skin
color. Only when someone else brings up skin-lightening creams or calls someone
ugly because they’re dark dark. So, while in this totally blissful moment of
just so legitimately being just a part of the community (maybe a weird-ish
part, but a role we’ve all gotten used to together over the last two years), to
have someone so starkly call me an outsider because of the color of my skin… Totally
fascinating really, to have the experience of being a minority race…
I’m sure she meant no offense. And there are still some
babies here that are scared of me, who have seen me only once or twice in their
lives, but there are also babies here that cry when I leave them! Who the thought of leaving so soon and no longer being
a part of their oh-so-precious lives makes me
cry. There’s a woman named Cheika who has become my best female friend who
started crying yesterday at the thought of my leaving, and people here do not cry in public. I only managed to
hold it together to be to her what she has been so many times for me: a solid
friend to lean on. … okay if I get any further down this road I won’t be able
to make it back.
Letting that bit of weirdness go, I got back to work.
Kids playing all around me, mom’s yelling at their kids, men bringing in
charette loads of onions in sacks from the fields, the sun beginning to set.
When I finally finished my work, I ate my beans on a mat in the sunset and just
watched. At this point in my service, my life here, all the negative stuff
seems to have just fallen away (mashallah), and there’s nothing left to do but
be so overwhelmingly grateful for LIFE… One of those perfect-world moments, ya
know? Anyway, after finishing my beans I took my plate over to clean it, talked
to the ladies who’d been cooking a tiny bit, and started walking away, only to
hear a friend who was cooking say “you guys are purposely acting stupid. You’re
acting like toubab’s.” So, in all good humor I turn around and call her out:
“did you really just say that? Did you really just say you guys are acting
stupid, you’re acting like toubab’s?” … What??? She apologized, all of us
laughing about it, and I assured her I wasn’t actually offended, while
thinking, “d***! I just made myself the
white girl!” Her response was “oh my gosh, I wasn’t even thinking about the
fact that you are a toubab.” … Bam! It’s not just me that forgets, and there I
was the one reminding everyone that I was different… just a strange little…
mmm… One foot in both worlds, one of them, and still not. But totally
beautifully accepted by the people that have seen me, talked with me, laughed
with me, shared their lives and their babies and their beans with me for the
last two years.
Can I get a Mashallah!?