I’ve been in Dakar for two weeks. Well, by the time I leave
tomorrow, it’ll be one week, six days and about 16 hours. In the past 15 days I’ve
been on Ciprofloxin, Zithromax, Ibuprofen, Acetaminophen, Paracetamol,
Tramodol, and whatever they inject as a local anaesthetic for dental procedures.
But, oh man, after my root canal yesterday, I am pain free and off all
medicines!! Yay!!!! I cannot tell you how thrilled I was when they told me the
root canal had been scheduled and how expectantly I was counting down the
minutes 'til I got those injections…
The evening before the crazy (likely antibiotic and mold
interaction induced) night that brought me here, I had one of the most
beautiful experiences of my time here. As I’ve mentioned, I’ve been teaching at
a center for Talibé in Saint-Louis once a week for a bit now. I can get a car
between my road town and Saint-Louis for a dollar, but from there to my village
is a three kilometer walk down a sand path. So, that Thursday, after finishing
my afternoon class I got a car back to my road town. Just before the car pulled
over, I heard a loud clap of what sounded like, but surely couldn’t be,
thunder. I’d been dreaming of rain, but hadn’t expected it right then. I turned
around and, sure enough, there rushing toward me in the great expanse of Sahelian
sky was a solid wall of grey, encircled by a tubular halo of a cloud. I tested
the wind (ya know, licked my finger), and it was actually pulling into the storm, which despite this fact
was clearly advancing toward me. Three kilometers 'til a dry home, an hour 'til
sunset, not a charette in site, I did what any good PC volunteer would do: I
put my laptop in a plastic grocery sack and booked it.
The moment right before the storm hit I was less than half
way back, and the sun was just , I dunno, five degrees above the horizon. The
wind suddenly changed direction, blowing furiously away from the rain, the sun
was cutting into the storm across the landscape, bathing everything in a golden
red, accenting the smallest of ridges in the sand in the most beautiful
contrast, mirroring that of the sky (gold-red on the west, dark grey in the east).
Making the green of the silan leaves (wiry desert bush things) somehow more
alive against the abysmal backdrop. And then the moment passed. All I could see
was the torrential rain. I was soaked in seconds. It was strangely less dark
inside the wall than it looked from a distance. And again, what could I do?
Just keep walking. Enjoy the once in a life time experience of walking home
through the first storm of rainy season. … Words fail, but it was a beauty I’ve
not previously had the chance to experience so closely, accompanied by the
energy of a nation’s hopes and expectations for a major cash crop season and that
of my own desire for some cooling rain. Once in a lifetime.
So, then **** got weird. And after one of the worst nights
of my life, I called the PC doctor and packed a bag to get to Dakar. Within a
few days my stomach had healed and my stress levels dropped, enough so that I
paid a little more attention to the growing pain in one of my teeth. Four
appointments later, the responsible nerve has been slain, leaving me simply
exhausted from the constant pain and sleepless nights. I’ll be back in Dakar in
11 days to get the tooth filled and possibly capped. But in the meantime, I’m
off to Saint Louis first thing in the morning.
I missed last week of English class, so am hoping to teach
tomorrow and Friday before hurrying back to village (I brought my raincoat this
time). Still, it’s a really weird feeling being gone this long so unexpectedly.
And to have such a horrible memory of that last night in village… Funny how the
past has no reality in the present, but it can leave a tangible mark on the
body-mind. I literally get some flushes of body anxiety when I think about that
last night. Let’s look at this rationally: I’ve lived in Khatete for over a
year, almost all of it peaceful. I had one
night of extreme body-mind stress, and a part of me actually just wants to
never go back. But most of me really does. This afternoon I opened my
logic-puzzles book to a page Djibi scribbled all over, and the memory of that sweet
little trouble maker was a strong motivator. So, clearly I am going back. And I know that the stress memory will fade, be
replaced by new sweet and stressful experiences (such is life.)
There are various aphorisms people use to express the
bi-polarity of the Peace Corps experience. It is, after all, “the toughest job
you’ll ever love.” A friend of mine says your good days in Peace Corps are like
mountain-top amazing, but your bad days in Peace Corps are like lose your faith
in humanity devastating. The bottom line is, this experience is just like
normal life, full of highs and lows, but cranked by the fact of your near
constant isolation and vulnerability. Now, I have to be clear. As you know I
have valuable beautiful friendships with people in my village, BUT none of them
will ever truly be able to understand the experience I’m having. The
vulnerability is an interesting experience… I guess it comes from the inability
to get to a doctor quickly, the inability to clearly express needs in crisis
situations, the distance from life-long trusted sources of assistance, and the
lack of generally “unnecessary” but inevitably comforting infrastructure (AC, refrigeration,
running water, reliable electricity and phone service, grocery stores,
pharmacies).
So, as a final note, I’d just like to express my gratitude
to all the people in American who selflessly support us PCVs. We know that,
just like our community members, most of you can’t really understand a lot of
what we go through, but you listen
patiently anyway. We know that we can be really self-obsessed and think
what we’re going through is the hardest thing possible in the world, and that
we are therefore the most awesomely hard-core amazing people ever, and you listen patiently anyway. And we
know we can be so melodramatic, and weak, and needy (most of us won’t generally
admit it, cause this is the hardest thing in the world, right), and you listen patiently anyway. And we
talk about poop too much and too casually… Well, I just want to say how incredibly
much we all need you. For me, it’s my mom and dad who are always there, always
willing to listen, and always supportive. You guys, I think, probably have some idea how much I appreciate you in general, but here's one more specific SUPER THANK YOU!!!! I'm pretty sure you're the best parents ever in the history of the world. Despite my tendency toward susperlatives. Anyone else who actually reads this
blog, anyone who’s ever sent me a package, anyone who listened to my stories
while I was in America, anyone who has contributed to the girls camp grant,
anyone who helped me get into and get ready for this mission, anyone who prays
for me or holds me in the stillness, THANK YOU!!!!!!
Thanks for the beautiful blog Jessica! What a gift it is to listen to you talking or writing. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!! Mom
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